There are many variables affecting what may one day be a trend in the gold jewelry world. New metals, design techniques, improvements in manufacturing or fashion directions can impact this ever changing industry.

Successfully following a trend or starting one are the challenges for today’s gold jewelry designers, as consumers shy away from the traditional purchases. “The market today is fashion versus classic,” said Nabil G Cheaib, of Jewel Tech in Bangkok. “Everyone is moving into fashion because it is something different, or they want up-to-date designs. Ten years ago the market was completely different. The people who can buy jewelry already have the classics, now they want something different,” he said.

A sample of Thailand’s gold jewelry designers and producers prove the manufacturers are just as fickle as the market and the consumers that give it direction. Some jewelry designers look to all sources for inspiration, whereas others claim following a trend makes a new idea old before it even becomes a design. For gold jewelry manufacturers, success is gauged on how well a design or line sells.

Many in the jewelry industry are not only looking east for growth markets, but for low cost quality jewelry production and a source for colored gemstones and diamonds as well. Thailand has become a leader in quality jewelry production based on a long history with colored stones and now diamonds. For Cheaib of Jewel Tech, the quality of Thailand’s jewelry manufacturing is the main factor that keeps him operating in the country.

Quality is a unifying word amongst gold jewelry manufacturers. Maintaining quality becomes a distinguishing characteristic as companies seek to be identified as something other than mass producers of jewelry. Jacques Prades, managing director of Gamma Creations, chooses to keep the company a far distance from mass production. Still, he admits there is delicate balance in sustaining what he calls the spirit of the company and planning for future growth.

“We are a small- to medium-sized company that has an artisan spirit, which is our strength. If we increase our staff and production, it may be difficult to keep this spirit. We are presently expanding by hiring more people, but as a slow rate,” he said.

Know to be one of the region’s best jewelry designers; Prades’ design team is the core of Gamma’s ability to appeal to the discerning customers in emerging Japanese and European markets. The design team of Gerald Weisdorfer, Najparakorn Kumluecha and Prades, distinguishes Gamma from other gold jewelry manufacturers because they do not look to outside sources for ideas or follow trends. “This is something we never do. If you do what everyone else is doing, the cake is divided into too many pieces. I would much rather have a small cake for myself,” Prades said.

Other gold jewelry manufacturers want their portion as well, looking to produce quality pieces as a way of getting a bigger piece. Creative designs need skilled craftsmen, but quality materials can give a jewelry design, what Prades calls a magical appeal for Gamma Creations. Commonly used gemstones to create this effect are diamonds, ruby, sapphire and emerald. This aspect of jewelry designs does not come cheaply, ‘What is unique or rare is expensive.” Prades said.

Gamma does not use created gemstones to offer affordable jewelry. Gamma uses natural semiprecious gemstones such as amethyst, blue topaz, citrine and polished agates in their designs.

Incorporating natural gemstones into designs is another common denominator in quality control for gold jewelry. Sovan Lo, of Thien Po, is one manufacturer making an exception. Using synthetics, however, is only a small portion of their business, according to Lo, and is usually done at the customer’s request. “We never use synthetics as part of our sample line. We are very good at gem setting with ruby and sapphire. This is our competitive edge over other centers for this quality,” Lo said.

Quality gemstone settings can also be a trademark for a designer’s line. For Cheaib of Jewel Tech it is not only a method of creating gold jewelry, it is a way of protecting his designs. “Invisible settings are a major part of our line. At least 65 percent of what we make is done in invisible settings because these designs are harder to copy. To my knowledge, this company is number one in this particular method. No company worldwide is doing this [invisible settings] in the quantity and quality that we are,” he said.

Jewel Tech’s design team is an amalgamation of cultures trying to appeal to 23 markets worldwide. The weekly meeting of designers tries to pool ideas and resources to develop ideas for their main markets in the United States, Europe and the Middle East.

In addition to the weekly design meeting, Cheaib says he tries to have at least 10 to 12 new designs each day. He is quick to say he looks to many sources for inspiration. “If you see one piece of jewelry and modify the design, you can come up with an entire line. This is part of what we do,” Cheaib said.

Although Jewel Tech exports 95 percent of their gold jewelry designs, it supports a small Thai market at their showroom in Bangkok. “The local market is different than the overseas market. The Thais have mixed tastes in jewelry,” he said.

According to the World Gold council (WGC), Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries are following traditional motif gold jewelry design trends. The WGC has recently published Gold Trends 1996-1997, Asian Edition and Evocative Gold an Asian Renaissance, two books discussing these design trends.

Gold Trends 1996-1997, Asian Edition, a guide for Asian designers from entries into the Chuk Kam Jewellery Competition 96, organized by the Hong Kong Jewellers & goldsmiths Association, and sponsored by the Hong Kong trade Development Council and the WGC, discusses the three trends in these markets.

The First trend is spirituality and nature, which seeks to establish basic design qualities associated with the earth. The book views nature as a vast source of inspiration for jewelry designs that can create certain calming effects for people.

Symbols and identity is a design trend which uses ancient graphics, calligraphy, figures and modern representations to express individuality and identity. By combining elements from Eastern and Western Cultures, this particular design trend has created symbols from tribal designs, fossils and footprints of animals.

            Harmony and balance demonstrate an indifference to form being a dominant factor in gold jewelry designs. Three trends in this particular design are: specular elements, differentiated by small but important details; opposing elements which may be concave and convex, full and hollow, or smooth and rough; elements in transformation that can be a strand which extends and twists, a sheet which is thick and then thin, or a volume which expands and contracts. Harmony also makes use of opposing design qualities such as glossy and matte finishes, flat and sculpted, and different shapes.

            Evocative Gold — an Asian Renaissance is a set of designs from Asia and Europe inspired by traditional motifs. The book is divided into six sections: Korea, Singapore, Straits Chinese, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand.

            Mysticism and naturalism influence Korean design, whereas Singapore is seeing a renaissance of Chinese culture with two dominant themes of fortunes and happiness, and legends and calligraphy. A neo-Peranakan influence is impacting Straits Chinese markets which include Indian motifs such as swans, peacocks and paisley designs. Chinese motifs such as peony, lanterns and the phoenix are common, along with Victorian styles and traditional textures in gold jewelry designs are popular as well for Straits Chinese.

            Malaysian designs reflect the many ethnic groups in the country with nature as a common theme. Five design themes chosen for Indonesia include batik, historical heritage, yearn for the gods, ethnic arts and village crafts. Thailand is seeing a revival of two traditional jewelry themes from Petchaburi and Sukhothai.   Spiritual gold mythological characters associated with protection and properties of temples are used. Other motifs include nature themes, from the lotus flower and cotton leaf to the elephant. Stylized elements of nature are done in repetitive patterns as well.

            The region is known for more than just sources of jewelry inspirations. Eyes are on Asia as it becomes well known for its jewelry consumption, and as a jewelry manufacturing center of the world. As Asia’s economic growth helps new businesses emerge, quality of life improves, and with it disposable income. Although it has been argued the increase in consumer goods may be stealing away a portion of money spent on luxury items, the jewelry industry keeps moving forward.

            Thailand’s fine jewelry exports were up 12.13 percent last year, with projections for gold consumption expected to jump 25 percent to 60 metric tons. This increase is due to jewelry manufacturers producing for recovering consumer markets. Europe and the United States are traditionally viewed as the larger markets, both of which are showing indications of a recovery.

            Exporting to these markets for Thai gold jewelry designers is most or all of their business. Trade shows are seen as a valuable networking, direct marketing and sales tool for gold jewelry manufacturers, with most having their eyes on the larger shows in Europe (Basel), Japan (IJT) and the United States (namely Las Vegas).

            Gamma’s Prades said in the past he only worked with the Bangkok fairs and the Hong Kong show. This year is an exception fo Gamma Creations with plans to attend Basel’96.” This will be our first trip outside of Asia to Basel. It will be good for us to be at Basel to get lots of exposure. It’s the biggest show in the world,” Prades said.

            Visiting these potential markets is good, but establishing regional branch offices are even better. “In the future we estimate establishing more branch offices in other countries to better serve the needs of more jewelers. Each office will know the needs of each market, so that we may offer them better service. Currently we are operating in France, London and Singapore,” Savon Lo of Thien Po said.

            Future marketing strategies for Jewel Tech are more aggressive. Cheaib said the company is currently considering a worldwide retail shop network with a different line to be sold in the retail market. Two retail outlets will open this year. If this strategy works well, Jewel Tech aims to open two retail shops each year until they fulfill their marketing aims, said Cheaib.

            Many influences impact the gold jewelry market from the manufacturing level to consumer behavior. Consumer trends go for larger pieces, according to Cheaib. Manufacturing technology such as electroforming may take its place amongst casting and stamping as it becomes the leading technology to produce large, light weight jewelry.

            “Electroforming is a method that falls between stamping and casting.” Said Simon Callai, director of Jewelry New Wave. “It offers good definition and is considerably lighter. It is also considered to be the best technology to reproduce earrings, statues and figurines,” said Callai. This technology, although highly developed, is still in its infancy in the jewelry manufacturing for the future, but will not replace commonly used methods of today.