The art of jewelry design, representative of the 1920s and the 1930s, has been lost to disappointing line drawings that have won over many unimaginative jewelry manufacturers since the 1970s, says Giuseppe Troisi, managing director of Ital Gold Jewellery Company Limited in Thailand.

             Much of the jewelry made today lacks concept, which was not the case a long time ago, said Troisi. “Now it’s like making bread and electronics,” he noted, urging jewelers to give more thought to the period in which they live and to let their jewelry reflect that age.

             An era strong on architectural details finds acceptance in Switzerland, West Germany, France, Italy, and the United States, said 29-year-old Troisi, who together with Raimon Co. Ltd. of Thailand head a jewelry manufacturing concern just north of Bangkok. In Asia, Ital Gold is to start promotions soon in Japan.

             “In this age, that’s the line people like,” Troisi said, referring to architectural cues which find application in jewelry design. “That’s the line people are surrounded with. Nobody’s thinking about this concept and what we are trying to do is to bear in mind that the styles should reflect the time in which we live”.

              A small group of designers concentrated in Europe and a few in the United States work with this concept foremost in mind, he says. What unites them is the Europe Institute of Design, with campuses in Rome and Milan. Their works reached maturity last year, Troisi said, with outstanding pieces that drew raves. “We believe in this kind of thinking of things. Every jeweler who can be called a jeweler works like this, “he continued, and cited Bulgari, “Only with this can we create a fashion.”

             The process appears simple. From the annals of modern architecture “out of which one cannot do much” come inspiration, Troisi said. “Even though they’re not copies, one can recognize the similarities.” Just look at the structure of the railway station in France, or the dream house of an Italian who lives in Switzerland.

              Jewelry designers “need to be architects and artists and must know a lot about technical designs, the handling of metals and stones, some engineering, and working with locks and stones,” Troisi lists.

             Under strong criticisms are the abbreviated jewelry arts design courses. At the Europe Institute, Troisi says, a four-year course which examines architecture, gemstones, designs and treatment of lead instills graduates with a sound understanding of the profession. “To be able to understand the concept, there are many things involved. He needs to have the same drive the company has and the same characteristics.”

              Ital Gold is considering opening a shop in downtown Bangkok, so people will know that Ital Gold’s jewelry are done entirely in Thailand, says Troisi. “The management is Italian, but everything else is done here, from beginning to end.” Its workforce is expected to increase to 260 by the end of the year, up from 50 cutters-workers in August.

             What is precious, Troisi stresses, is the design itself, for which Ital Gold tries to bring out with the use of agate, synthetic stones, small diamonds and malachite. Gemstones are interchangeable for added fun! Price ranges for a broad range of items including men’s cuff links and money clips range from 1,000 to 1,500 U.S. dollars, and 500 to 15,000 dollars for handmade jewelry.

             “Jewelry should draw attention. Women like to be noticed, to appeal in some way, and to be attractive. To show their beauty and jewelry is part of it,” Troisi concludes.