THAILAND’S jewelry designers lack strong government and industry backing that otherwise could position them in the enviable ranks of their better known European counterparts, says Parinya Tumwattana, director of Bangkok Jewelry Institute. “There has been no hard push in the direction of jewelry arts —a field that emerged only in the past five years and quietly contributed to the country’s number two foreign exchange earner.” Parinya told JewelSiam.

          Exports of gemstones and gemset jewelry are expected to exceed 30 billion baht (1.2 billion U.S. dollars) by the end of the year, according to the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association and Commerce Ministry estimates.

           “As a newcomer, Thai jewelry design is competing with the works of those countries that either get full support from their governments or have a long tradition in jewelry design,” Parinya said.

He urged the government and the 1,000-member trade association to provide more opportunities for young Thai designers, citing frequent exhibitions and trade shows.

Out of some 50 professional jewelry designers in Thailand, a small number have formed independent business groups but the bulk of the designers — many who are primarily retailers and who regard the trade more of an extension of a family business — are unlikely to organize exhibitions on their own, Parinya noted.

“The impetus is weak,” the 29-year-old designer said. “If Thailand wants to establish itself as the world’s gem and jewelry center, then it must also invest in its designers who must gain international recognition in a short time.” That recognition, Parinya said, could come when Thailand wins acceptance to the prestigious annual gems, jewelry and watch fair held in spring in Basel, Switzerland.

For the past decade, Thailand’s application has been turned down because a number of exhibitors there including Italy, France and Spain resent Thai competition in what is largely regarded as a European trade fair and had complained strongly about intellectual property violations in Thailand, TGJTA members privately say.

Parinya makes no lengthy excuses for Thai designers.

“I tell them upfront that ours is hard and creative work with high expectations.” He said. “I also tell them to look for inspiration from objects that surround us, from tools to tree-tops.”

Passing comments about unoriginality and all-too-often Thai copies of European designs annoy Parinya. Conceding that Thai manufacturers and their employed designers cater to market dictates, Parinya however said a closer and unhurried examination of individual works of Thai designers should reveal varied themes that could be regarded as Thai-style.

“Yet the larger picture has more to deal with our mentality which could change.” Parinya continued. “Retailers should not be so impulsive about handing sleek jewelry catalogs to their foreign customers for fast duplications. They should be able to recommend original designs conceived by Thai designers.”

Unlike Europeans, Thais look at jewelry as investment, favoring flawless and precious gemstones over laborious designs, Parinya said.

“In Europe, jewelry is part of fashion and there is less speculation on what an item could be worth several years later,” he said. “Thais still buy and wear jewelry for value, and will part with valuable pieces for money.”