As far as Benoit De Gorski is concerned, there are only “about ten original jewelry designers in the world today.” Naturally, he considers himself one of the elite groups.
He has some basis for this bravado. His combinations of colored stones, pearls and antique intaglio first startle the eye, then quicken the pulse of jewelry connoisseurs. A Swiss who trained as a watchmaker, Mr. De Groski adds precision and finely-tuned mechanisms to his creativity.
The energetic designer is in constant motion at his Geneva office, running up and down the circular staircase or rushing to answer one of several ringing phones.
It may be mean times for some jewelers, but not for Mr. De Gorski. Orders keep coming. As coincidence would have it, shortly before I arrived a bracelet, neckpiece and earring set of antique intaglio, ruby and South Sea pearls was sold to “one of the most famous, most beautiful woman in the world,” he reveals.
Who?
That information was not forthcoming. Anyway, everyone will know soon enough, Mr. De Gorski assures me, since this regal human being will be seen wearing his designs in every major magazine.
As for the price of this exquisite set, again it’s “no comment,” But judging from the cost of other pieces in the showcase, it would not be surprising to learn that the price tag was about $500,000. The set included several 12-14mm South Sea Pearls and a South Sea Peal drop of 16mm, all “without a spot on them.”
“They’re perfect,” Mr. De Gorski relates with a smile. The rubies are from Burma and the intaglio, which he gets from “a secret source” are certificated to be 2,000 years old.
Mr. De Gorski’s trademarks are his hidden clasps, the fine mechanism and flexibility of his jewelry and the perfection of the stones he uses. But it’s the closures he wants to elaborate on.
“Why should a woman have to struggle, to pull her hair back, so she can close her neckpiece?” he asks. “And why should the clasp be obvious if her hair is off her neck?”
As he speaks he demonstrates by opening a clasp on one of his n
Earpieces which is cleverly hidden behind the front jewel. “Only in Geneva can you find such workmanship,” he says. “It’s perfection.”
A tray of jewelry appears. The earrings don’t match. There is symmetry but a brown intaglio with a while South Sea pearl is mated with a green intaglio featuring the same sized pearl but black. (The price – about $7,000). Two 18th century mother-of-pearl cameos feature different colored pearls also.
“A woman has two sides, a left and right. There’s harmony for a man to see different colors, even different shapes when he looks at her. It’s normal,” Mr. De Gorski explains with aaplomb.
Since Mr. De Gorski “hates to travel” gem dealers come to him in Geneva to sell their products. It’s colored stones that he adores, especially cabochons. “I don’t like diamonds very much,” he states adamantly, “and I detest round diamonds in particular. They don’t speak to me.”
Pear shape and oval diamonds are acceptable. But color is his forte. He points to a pale blue sapphires. “You see you must add a strong color next to it. The eye gives the information to the brain and with two colors it’s much more fabulous. Don’t you agree?”
He dashes up the stairs once again, returning a few minures later with an awesome finale for the interview. “It’s not enough just to make a piece of jewelry, I must create a ‘story’ with my designs,” he says, as he places a ring shaped like a club from a playing card on the table. He proceeds to unfold the “ring” into a perfectly flexible link bracelet with, of course, the clasp hidden beneath the jewels. The wearer has two options with the $12,000 piece.